4 places to get superb döner kebab in Metro Detroit
Melody BaetensThe döner kebab is one of planet Earth's most perfect foods.
Made with vertical rotisserie meat, usually lamb and beef, the döner is similar to gyro or shawarma, but has a distinct flavor all its own, and is usually served with a garlic yogurt sauce and crispy vegetables like lettuce, tomato and sometimes cabbage, carrot, cucumber or onion.
Most importantly it is served on pide, Turkish flatbread that is crusty and soft, and far more substantial than lavash or pita. The meat, sauce and veggies aren't rolled up into the bread, but stuffed into a triangle-shaped slice of pide.
While it's a popular dish in other parts of the world — namely Germany where Turkish immigrants served it as hearty street food — up until about five years ago, it was basically impossible to find döner kebab in Metro Detroit. Now, I can point to at least four places that have it and do it very, very well. Let's go!
Balkan House — Hamtramck and Ferndale
This restaurant is what started the döner kebab craze in the Detroit area. Owner Juma Ekic has two Balkan House locations; the first opened in Hamtramck in 2019, and a Ferndale outpost debuted shortly after. Ekic and her team also have a few food trailers so they can bring their "taste of Europe" all over Metro Detroit.
The meat is tender, very thinly sliced and well-seasoned, but it's the warm, house-made bread and yogurt-based sauce that really makes this a prime example of döner kebab for me. It's hard to order anything else because the classic döner ($13) is so good, but it's also fantastic as a bowl, which has all the same ingredients as the sandwich, but over rice instead of on bread.
If you have one döner in this town, let it be from Balkan House. For those who don't eat beef or lamb, Balkan House also makes a similar sandwich with chicken meat or falafel.
Both locations are open Tues.-Sun. for lunch and dinner. 3028 Caniff, Hamtramck. (313) 262-6234. 314 W. Nine Mile, Ferndale. (248) 268-4920. thebalkanhouse.com.
Supergeil — Corktown
This colorful, hip restaurant is the only full-service one in town serving döner kebab. By that I mean there's a dining room, full bar and they take reservations. One of my picks for the best new restaurants of 2021, Supergeil is still super awesome as it approaches its third year of business.
The bar features Two James Distillery spirits, plus some fun frozen drinks and an interesting reserve spirit list, and the cuisine is a blend of European and Middle Eastern. The thinly sliced lamb and beef döner is lovely, with warm, crusty pide, a garlic-y sauce, a spicy sauce and crunchy cucumber, tomato and lettuce. They also have a creative eggplant version with tomato, an apricot sauce, mint and tahini.
My favorite, however, is the chicken curry döner, which will hit the spot when you have a curry craving. It comes with garlic sauce, cucumber, tomato and lettuce, plus zhoug, a spicy cilantro sauce that is tasty but not overpowering. Sandwiches run $15-$17.
Carnivores, do not leave Supergeil without ordering the Georgian soup dumplings (dinner menu only). These beef and pork balls with broth are wrapped in a thick dough and served in threes, steaming hot, on a bed of sour cream, sliced pickles and dill.
Open for lunch and dinner Tues.-Sun, plus Sunday brunch. 2442 Michigan, Detroit. (313) 462-4133. supergeildetroit.com.
The Döner Shawarma - Dearborn
For years I didn't think anywhere else could come close to the flavor and execution of Balkan House's döner, but this food trailer in Dearborn has done it.
The Döner Shawarma's sandwiches are sold as beef, chicken or a vegetarian version with fries, plus lettuce, tomato, pickled red cabbage, onion and two sauces all stuffed into a triangle-cut loaf. The bread is crispy on the outside (it's pressed on a grill), soft on the inside, and dotted with two kinds of sesame seeds. This one sandwich ($10.49-$14.49) could easily feed two people.
As the name implies, this late-night food stand also has beef and chicken shawarma sandwiches and serves döner as a sandwich, a bowl over rice or as a burger with jalapenos and Doritos on top. The whole menu here is halal. Order at the window or call or order ahead online.
Open noon-midnight Mon.-Thurs., noon-1 a.m. Fri., 3 p.m.-1 a.m. Sat. and 3 p.m.-midnight Sun. 100 N. Telegraph, Dearborn. (313) 300-6183. order.online/store/the-doner-shawarma-dearborn-25445145.
Galata Sweets - Dearborn
Blending Turkish coffee house, bakery and late-night café vibes, this Dearborn gathering spot is not to be missed. Be sure to look up and admire the stunning, colorful mosaic-like light fixtures.
Although there's a lot to distract us (like beautiful cakes and baklava) we’re here for the döner kebab, which comes in two styles according to the QR code menu: chicken and “meat,” which is beef ($10.95-$12.95). It’s served on a 1/6 loaf of soft bread, which is more chewy than the others I’ve tried around town. The döner kebab sandwiches at Galata Sweets have two sauces, a sweet and spicy ketchup-like one and a creamy garlic sauce.
In addition to the sandwich Galata also has iskander, which is döner kebab meat served not in a sandwich, but over pita bread with tomato sauce and sheep's milk yogurt.
Carb-lovers take note, they also have flaky burek and a variety of flatbread-style Turkish dishes, such as etli ekmek, lahmacun and boat-shaped pide topped with cheese and your choice of egg, vegetables, meat or zaatar seasonings. I love Galata Sweet’s tagline, “You’re one bite away from Istanbul.”
Open daily 9 a.m. until 11:30 p.m., midnight on weekends. 1035 Mason, Ste. 102, Dearborn. (313) 914-7059. galatasweetsusa.com.
Briefly: Heidelberg Restaurant & Bar in Ann Arbor had a chicken döner sandwich on its menu, but the restaurant is currently revamping its kitchen and is running a limited pub menu for the time being.
Melody Baetens is The Detroit News restaurant critic
mbaetens@detroitnews.com